Bonjour Madam and Monsieur! The first trip we attempted with our toddler in Europe was to Paris and Marseille.  It was the trip we learnt a lot about travelling with a toddler. The “trial” trip some might say, was a total success!  We signed ourselves up to go with some friends to Paris and that was a fantastic idea, as they knew some broken French phrases that got us around for a couple of days. 

We set off from London on a flight from Heathrow to Paris Charles de Gaulle airport where we struggled to find train tickets into the city. in Hinde-sight we should have tried to pre-book travel via the train into Paris, but that was pretty much the only speed hurdle in the week – after queuing for an hour or so we had bought tickets and found the train leaving the airport.  Despite me jumping on a flight I would highly recommend booking the Eurostar to Paris if it’s affordable at the time of booking – because you don’t have to do the queues for luggage, security and immigration.  You can skip any entry forms to France and just get into the heart of Paris in a few hours.

We did the cultured french thing and had brunch at Holy Belly Cafe, and it was so worth skipping breakfast for, with French meeting the Australian brunch.  It was heaven and a great introduction to our high expectations of the delicious mouth-watering French food, and also a sweet reminder of our Bondi brunch vibes.  We then ventured to The Basilica of Sacré Coeur de Montmartre, commonly known as Sacré-Cœur, overlooking the entire City of Paris.   This is a location that people may think is not pram accessible because of the steep inclining stairs to climb to the top of the incredible outlook.  But there is actually a side push cart/lift that takes you and your pram up to the top of the hill, with no climbing necessary.   The most breathtaking view was in front of us, the whole of Paris from a 180-degree angle, its white streets from one side to the other. I was speechless.   If your trip allows it, I would try and visit this location at sunset (toddler allowing) as when the sun hits the Eiffel tower all the roads turn golden – and what a sight to be seen.  You’ll forever fall in love with Paris. 

We were lucky to stay in a very cute French Terrace airbnb, with a balcony just perfect for eating cheese and wine for dinner on the balmy Paris night while our toddlers/babies ate le fresco on the floor.  It was your typical Persian terrace with fold-out windows and a central balcony overlooking the courtyard of the apartment block.  It was a cute area, with a giant green park, an amazing set of playgrounds, and multiple boulangeries of course.  We fluked the fact that the accommodation was on the train line, making it easy to visit the centre of Paris on our day trips.  On our second day, we headed into the Lurve Museum, enjoyed its stunning architecture from the outside, and walked around the Tuileries Garden,  filled with tourists and locals enjoying summer.  The stunning hot day allowed us to enjoy the deck chairs around the Grand Bassin Rond (pond with ducks), the shade of the trees lining the restaurants and a stunning walk with the white path leading to and from the Lurve.  Highly recommend finding a boulangerie and ordering all your favourite pastries for lunch and then sitting under the trees in the gardens. A place to run around for your toddler on the grass with the backdrop of the French architecture – what a way to enjoy Paris for you and your toddler. 

Tips for Paris: 

• Find your accommodation on a train line that allows quick access to the iconic tourist destinations, if you’re not planning to stay in the centre of Paris. Perhaps with air conditioning if visiting in summer as it does get hot (but the french don’t believe in air-con so it might be hard to find.)
• If you plan on doing specific restaurants, book them ahead, cause they do get busy. Like the Holy Belly Cafe.  When searching for your locals Boulongeire do some google searches and find the best one, it’s worth it.  It goes without saying, eat as much bread, desserts and macaroons as possible.
• Go to Basilica of Sacré Coeur de Montmartre, at sunset, or during the day.  It’s such a stunning outlook of the entire City.
• The Playgrounds are amazing in Paris.  You’ll enjoy searching out your local playgrounds and just soaking up the French culture.
• If all you remember from this post is this: Know that eating french cheese and wine on your french terrace balcony looking out to the Parisian sunset, while your toddlers are in bed, will make you happy.  You don’t have to be in some fancy restaurant or accommodation to enjoy this City.   It’ll only take you a second to realise, you really are already living the absolute french summer dream. 
• Don’t feel like you have to see every museum, or do every tour to enjoy Paris.  Probably unlike popular opinions, I believe you don’t even HAVE to see the Eiffel Tower to love Paris.  If you’ve eaten at a patisserie, people watched, heard some music on the river, had a wine under a tree and seen the playground, you’ll feel the magic of Paris.  If you become Parisian for a day you will feel the magic.  I mean you get the drift, just being in Pairs is enough. You don’t have to see it all, to enjoy it.  You just have to BE there.  

After 72 hours in Paris we caught the bullet train from Paris Gare de Lyon to Marseille at 6 am in the morning because it was the cheapest way to get to Marseille for us, only taking just over 3 hours.  The train system is so good in France, it practically gets you anywhere in France and fast. There was a tiny commute between the metro and the main Paris Gare de Lyon station, but doable for us as we travelled somewhat lightly.  It’s not completely stress-free or step-free but if you’re on a tight budget, worth the metro commute.  If you are not worried about a bit of commuting money, book the taxi to Paris Gare de Lyon, it’ll make it tons easier.  For example, we were travelling with friends who knew a little french so could direct us to the right platforms.

The city of Marseille is beautiful, but we decided to live it up and stay at David Le Prado Beach which is a very toddler-friendly coastal town off Marseille. Easy flat roads to the beach with a long flat pathway up and down the sand – brilliant for pram pushing, swimming and night activities along the water.  Also, plenty of restaurants along the beach to choose from for lunch and dinner – our favourite being L’Exquinox. for the tapas, crepes and Aperol Spritz.  We stayed at the Golden Tulip Villa Massalia which had ocean views, a balcony and a swimming pool and upgraded to a larger room because we came with a toddler.

Tips when staying in Marseille;

• Stay at David La Prado Beach for easy access to the beach and restaurants at night.  It will feel like a really relaxed beach holiday where you can easily stay out until your toddler is tired without a long commute home.Take a bus trip to Marseille City, as it is the most stunning ancient Port with so many beautiful outlooks over the old City.  Plenty of places to stop to eat for lunch.  We also walked up the Hill to find the Aire de jeux (playground) in Parc Emile Duclaux, which overlooks the ocean, and city.  The playground was a perfect stop for our toddlers to run out their energy, with such an incredible view of a stunning building named Palais du Pharo. If there is time, there are also some stunning places to have wine and chips near this park on top of the cliff overlooking the whole City. 
• We could have also spent a good afternoon at The Plagues de Catalans beach, restaurants, and Beloungeries.   It’s a stunning area to relax and swim. A stunning area of Marseille, just a short walk from the Palais du Pharo as well.  It would be a great full day out.
• The biggest must-see destination near Marseille is Cassis, an absolutely stunning little boutique coastal town.  The picturesque beach village nestled in the cliffs is famous for the hidden Calanques in the cliffs (inlets of water to swim and beach).  Many non-toddler visitors will hike down to see these Calanques and enjoy the crystal clear water.  This wasn’t on our list for this trip with a toddler.  But might be okay if you’re a hiking family with all the gear and you stay in Cassis for a longer period.  But because we only went here for a day, we decided to enjoy the Port of Cassis for a seafood lunch, and then swam at the prettiest beach I’ve laid eyes on Plage du Bestouan.  The whitest pebbles, crystal water, kiosk and a stunning outlook to the hills. We also happily roamed around the fresh food markets with the most delicious cheeses, olives and fruit surrounded by cute boutique shops to grab your french soap or your next dress. 
• Eat as much pasta, cheese, wine and crepes as you can! Pick up your favourite wines and cheeses and stash them in your luggage for the way home to Britain.

My favourite tip of all is just to enjoy the french culture with its amazing accent, distinct taste for quality food and stunning architecture.  They have a contagious lifestyle that happily oozes a relaxed enjoyment of life, delicious food and classicly good fashion. You’ll come home a changed and inspired person, with perhaps a taste for the finer things in life.